Synth Oil Question

Performance and tuning enhancements for your VW
p1bump
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Postby p1bump » Wed Feb 06, 2008 6:48 pm

Hi DalM3,

ok, here's my 15 years as an amsoil dealer coming into play. I really hadn't dealt with oil burning much over the years, except my 1995 SHO with the 3.0 24v yamaha built v6 wold burn some oil due to 150k or so miles and my frequent romps well over the speed limit and 7000 rpms. At that time Ford claimed 1qt / 1000 miles just like Oz said above. It's a published number, but a ludicrous (sp?) one in my opinion. .

So, while I still had this car I called amsoil tech support and voiced my question - why would I want to put synthetic in this car if it is burning oil already? Now I know this is the opposite of your situation, but maybe the answer would work for you too.

The response was to run the engine flush in the car. Occasionally muck (for forgetting the proper term) builds up and can accumulate in and around the piston rings, specifically the oil control rings.

Anyway, FF to today. On the SHO, a 2001 Taurus V6, 00 jetta 2.0L and a 1.9lTDI Jetta 2004, all were burning a little oil. Running engine flush on these right before the synthetic conversion solved the problems.

There was, however, several older yotas and hondas that were simply neglected beyond piston ring buildup (leaking valve guides, different gaskets and seals that were damaged, etc)., that it did not work on. After all, there is no such thing as miracle snake oil.

so, an engine flush may be worth a shot, fifth product down on the page.
http://www.lubedealer.com/rosemotors/featuredproductsview.aspx

I guess it goes without saying the painfully obvious. check the drain plug & oil filter, make sure they done be tight, and look for new found leaks or seal failures.

cheers
2004 Jetta Wagon 1.8Tip tinted

p1bump
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Postby p1bump » Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:45 am

James,
you are not referring to my suggested product that way, are you? Snake oil? ouch. Shit, 10+ years in an arond the car business and I haven't heard that is a while :box:
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p1bump
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Postby p1bump » Thu Feb 07, 2008 12:16 pm

well, that's why I started with personal experience, no snake oil at all. it won't fix a neglected motor, but it doesn't sound like DalM3's motors has been neglected either.

flush can help take down some lighte varnish buildups and the like. it is recommended befor switching to synthetic but certainly not required. if it would have helped enough to cure this issue then it would have been $6 or so well spent. it is true to say there are certainliy a ton of cheapo products on the market that don't work. most of them go for a while on hype, in the end the all pretty much die off.

dura lube anyone? it eats the heat. (as seen on TV)

shoot, well say, has anyone tried oxyclean in their motor yet? it takes stains off of clothing and those lacey drapes grandma has, why not the inside of a car motor??
2004 Jetta Wagon 1.8Tip tinted

p1bump
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Postby p1bump » Thu Feb 07, 2008 12:37 pm

Hey Oz, you really should look a little more at some of these products. This right in line with a product that suits your needs, check it out the link I had above. It is designed to avoid problems rather than fixing them. Though, and in my experience, it has helped a few cars that had the "glazing" that you referred to.

This also lines up with something I feel very strongly about, saving resources, natural or otherwise. It certainly warrants a thought or two.

If stepping up oil changes would fix a problem there are two problems being contributed to...
1- time = the hassle of doing it so frequently
2- enviornmental = multiple oil changes that are not needed contribute negatively two ways, production of waste oil and a waste of precious and finite resources. a main thrust of mine is to minimize my impact on the envoirnenment.
3- money, spending the cash on an oil change adds up on top of the problems 1 & 2.

I like cars, using and abusing them, motorcycles and boats too. but I want to be as responsible as possible. changing oil more frequently leads leads to more problems than solutions, especially when a $6 quality bottle of flush prior to a quality synthetic and excellent filtration generally solves lubricantion related problems almost entirely.

I worked in dealerships around the east bay, thinking ecologically and towards solutions for autombiles it's a mentality that is tough to create. they mostly stick dino oil in and change it every time you come withing a 3 miles radius. for them and the industry as a whole an oil change = profit. there are other ways worth looking in to.

edit---- I haven't used seafoam. oh, and there are no harmfull side effects to emissions with the flush I use, doesn't hurt the cats, I'v been using it for 15 years in all my family's cars, from Mercedes to Nissan to Fords to Yamaha motorcycles to MB Sports and Master Craft boats, all of it. Though its funny that you mention a 327, that's what I had in my six nine Camaro when I first found this product, go figure. with this stuff you simply drain and recycle oil when you are done just as you always do. watchout though, with this flush in the oil bounces like flubber in the drain catch, it's interesting. I ended up wearing some all over my sleeve and my garage floor got an anti rust coat to boot :(

So DalM3, have you found anything out yet ? was a drain plug loose?
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p1bump
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Postby p1bump » Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:25 pm

Sureguy wrote:The reason I said 327 cuz I had a 68 RS with 327 and powerslide.

Good times.... :)
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Floyd
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Postby Floyd » Sat Feb 09, 2008 1:04 pm

I am glad my car is not the only one that drinks oil. It drinks around a qt every 1500 miles. I may try that amsoil out. I pretty much have used mobil one on everything the last 8 or 10 years lol. Thanks for the info. I do keep 2 qts in my truck at all times.
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p1bump
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Postby p1bump » Sat Feb 09, 2008 2:39 pm

hey floyd, before you do make the change I certainly recommend that you do the flush process with one clean filter, then install the new oil and filter, minimize the possibilities of future oil consumption the best that you can.

if you want to get the stuff at wholesale pm me.
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p1bump
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Yo Dal, you got an update?

Postby p1bump » Thu Feb 14, 2008 6:26 pm

Hi DalM3,

do you have an update on the how and why and what in the heck happened?
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p1bump
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Postby p1bump » Mon Feb 18, 2008 10:00 pm

do you mean that you just put dino 10w-30 in?
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rorinmk28v
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Postby rorinmk28v » Tue Feb 19, 2008 2:06 pm

if it continues i would bet you have either a. a valve guide gone bad or b. a bad gasket. ive put alot of different weights in my motor. from 5-20 to 20-50 and havnt had any loss of oil

p1bump
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Postby p1bump » Wed Feb 27, 2008 9:26 pm

update M3?.
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DeviantDub
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Postby DeviantDub » Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:36 pm

Dude i just wanted to say your MK3 is badass lookin clean rims, NICE Rack, and yeah its just good lookin id rock it :thumb:
03 Silverstone Gray VW GTI VR6, 20th AE Front & Rear lips, Cupra R Front lip, R32 sideskirts & spoiler, 18" TSW Kyalami's, KW V2 coilovers, NeuSpeed 25mm F/S 28mm R/S, WRD Rear Upper Stress Bar, GIAC chip, AEM CAI, Magnaflow 2.5" exhaust, EIP Short shifter, Kamei eyelids, DEPO smoked Angel Eye Projector HID Headlights w/fogs & smoked Lamin-X, Rear Fog, Smoked markers, Black VW emblems, OEM light up Jetta vents, Audi TT pedals, OEM MKV Aero wiper kit, OEM Polo rear wiper, Freedom Design stubby

p1bump
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Postby p1bump » Mon Mar 31, 2008 9:38 am

dudes, read my earlier post on the engine flush.

it's not snake oil, it's just simply an option worth trying whether you go to dino oil or stick with synthetic.

PM if you want more information. I've had experiences just like yours where it made the difference in oil control at the rings and things went back about their normal way of operating.

for a 6 or 7 dollar bottle and fresh oil it's not an expensive shot.
2004 Jetta Wagon 1.8Tip tinted


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